Kathmandu is an intense city: medieval alleys, overlapping temples, motorbikes, incense and prayer flags on every hill. For a culturally curious couple it is one of Asia's most fascinating capitals, and also the gateway to the Himalayas. This guide leans on the British Foreign, Commonwealth & Development Office (FCDO) travel advice for Nepal and the information of the Nepal Tourism Board, consulted on 7 November 2026, and claims nothing that does not appear in them.
What to see in the valley
The Kathmandu Valley holds several historic squares known as Durbar: Kathmandu, Patan and Bhaktapur, the last with the Nyatapola temple. These are ensembles of temples and palaces in brick and carved wood, each walkable in half a day. On a hill to the west stands the Swayambhunath stupa, with prayer flags and views over the valley. All of it deserves respect: cover shoulders and legs, remove shoes where asked, and note that non-Hindus are barred from some parts of Hindu temples, as the FCDO reminds visitors.
Thamel and daily life
Thamel is the most touristy district for lodging and restaurants, which is why it is also one of the areas where the British advice flags pickpockets and bag-snatchers, alongside airports and buses. It recommends not walking alone on poorly lit streets at night, not carrying large sums of cash and not accepting drinks from strangers. There is also a warning about methanol-contaminated alcohol, so drink in trusted venues. Women have been sexually assaulted in tourist areas, so take care when alone after dark.
When to go
The monsoon runs roughly June to October and brings floods and landslides that can cut roads for days. Outside it, moving around is easier and clear views are likelier. Tremors are common in Nepal and emergency equipment and hospitals are limited, so the British advice suggests asking your tour operator about its contingency plans.
If you want to trek
Most couples who come to Nepal want to head for the mountains, and the rules are clear. A permit and a TIMS card are needed for the main trekking regions, independent foreign trekkers must use a local guide or porter in national parks and protected areas, and the advice stresses not to trek alone. Above roughly 3,000 metres there is a risk of altitude sickness, sudden storms and avalanches, and the FCDO warns about very cheap deals where trekkers are taken up too fast and then a costly helicopter evacuation is called. Check that your insurance covers mountain rescue. We have a dedicated Nepal trekking and safety guide.
Domestic flights
The same advice notes that flights in high mountain areas are often delayed or cancelled by weather, and that no Nepali airline meets international safety standards according to the UK Air Safety List. Each couple sets its own risk level, but it is official information worth reading before booking an internal flight.
Laws and behaviour
Drug penalties are severe: even small amounts of marijuana can mean more than five years in prison. Same-sex relations are legal, but public displays of affection are seen as inappropriate. Always carry your passport and keep a copy separately.
Couples and the lifestyle scene
We have not found any lifestyle venue in Kathmandu with a verifiable official website, and we publish nothing without that proof. Travel to Nepal is best enjoyed as a culture and nature break.
A sample four-day itinerary in the valley
On the first day, settle in and take an unhurried walk around your neighbourhood, with no long distances. On the second, Kathmandu Durbar Square and the Swayambhunath stupa, in comfortable shoes and clothes that cover shoulders and legs. On the third, Patan in the morning and Bhaktapur in the afternoon, with the Nyatapola temple as a landmark. On the fourth, free time and shopping, with room for traffic surprises. If you then head for a mountain route, leave a buffer day at the start and another at the end, because flights and roads are affected by weather. Talk to your trekking operator before booking to confirm permits, guide and insurance. Pack layers: mornings in the valley can be cool while afternoons are warm, and a light rain jacket is useful outside the dry season. Keep a printed copy of your accommodation address in case your phone runs out of battery in the narrow alleys.
Frequently asked questions
Do we need a permit to trek? Yes: a permit and TIMS card for the main regions, and a guide or porter for independent foreigners in protected areas.
Is Thamel safe? It is touristy and has pickpockets; look after your belongings and avoid dark streets at night.
Can we kiss in public? Public displays of affection are seen as inappropriate.
What about domestic flights? The British advice records frequent delays and lists Nepali airlines on the UK Air Safety List.
Are there verified swinger clubs? No.
