Nepal: trekking and safety, permits, altitude and flights

Nepal attracts couples who want to walk together among mountains, temples and high villages. It is an unforgettable trip and, well prepared, reasonably safe; badly prepared, it can end in a helicopter evacuation. This guide summarises the UK Foreign, Commonwealth & Development Office (FCDO) travel advice on Nepal, consulted on 7 November 2026, and the Nepal Tourism Board website. We claim nothing that is not in them. For the cultural side, see our Kathmandu destination for couples.

Permits and guides: what is required

A permit and a TIMS card are needed to enter the main trekking regions. Independent foreign trekkers must use a local guide or porter in national parks and protected areas, and the advice insists: do not trek alone. Ignoring these rules can mean fines or removal from protected areas. It helps to have a trusted operator handle permits and registrations and to know exactly who accompanies you.

Altitude: what does not forgive

Above roughly 3,000 metres there is a risk of altitude sickness, sudden storms, avalanches, landslides, crevasses and sun exposure. The FCDO warns about very cheap deals in which inexperienced trekkers are taken too fast to high altitude and then a very costly helicopter evacuation is called. A sensible approach is to ascend slowly, plan acclimatisation days and descend at the first serious symptom. Before leaving, check that your insurance covers mountain rescue and helicopters.

Mountain flights

Flights in high areas are often delayed or cancelled by weather, so leave spare days and extra money. The advice adds that no Nepali airline meets international safety standards under the UK Air Safety List, and that commercial air incidents have caused at least 100 deaths over the last five years. It is official information each couple must weigh when planning.

Monsoon and earthquakes

The monsoon, roughly June to October, brings floods and landslides that can make roads impassable or cut off towns for days. Check road conditions, carry medication and supplies and be ready to change plans. Tremors are common and emergency equipment and hospitals are limited; after a major earthquake expect transport and accommodation disruption. Ask your operator about its contingency plan.

Crime, drinks and behaviour

Serious crime is rare, but pickpockets and bag-snatchers operate at airports, on buses and in tourist areas such as Thamel and Sanepa. Do not walk alone on poorly lit streets at night or carry large amounts of cash. Women have been sexually assaulted in tourist areas. Do not accept drinks from strangers or leave them unattended, and bear in mind the risk of methanol-contaminated alcohol.

Laws and customs

Drug penalties are severe: even small amounts of marijuana can mean over five years in prison, and CBD products are illegal. Buying, selling or trafficking wildlife without a licence is prohibited. At temples cover shoulders and legs and remove shoes where asked; non-Hindus are barred from certain parts of Hindu temples. Same-sex relations are legal, but public displays of affection are seen as inappropriate. Always carry your passport, with a copy kept separately.

For lifestyle-minded couples

Nepal is a mountain and culture destination. We have verified no lifestyle venue with an official website in the country and publish none; discretion is the norm.

Quick checklist before you fly

Arrange your visa with the embassy or through official channels and carry a passport with enough validity. Buy insurance with mountain rescue and helicopter cover. Ask your operator about its contingency plan. Pack basic medication, sunscreen and layered clothing.

How to plan the pace

If this is your first trek, choose a short, well-marked route with spare days in case the weather turns. Book your first days in the Kathmandu Valley to adjust to the noise, moderate altitude and food, and keep a buffer day at the end in case flights are cancelled or roads are cut. Tell your embassy or someone you trust your itinerary, and do not agree to change route with an unknown guide who offers a cheap shortcut. Listen to your body: a severe headache, nausea or clumsiness when walking are reasons to stop and descend. Altitude affects people regardless of fitness, so fit couples are not exempt from the rule of ascending slowly. Carry a small first-aid kit, drink plenty of water and avoid alcohol while acclimatising. Finally, keep emergency contacts for your embassy, your insurer and your operator in a place you can reach without a phone signal, such as a printed card in your daypack.

Frequently asked questions

Can I trek without a guide? Independent foreigners must use a guide or porter in national parks and protected areas, according to the advice.

What is the TIMS card? A registration required, with the permit, to enter the main trekking regions.

Does any insurance work? No: make sure it covers mountain rescue and helicopter evacuation.

When should I avoid Nepal? The monsoon (roughly June to October) brings floods and landslides.